Back at Basecamp

I arrived back here on thursday, a little earlier than planned, but it was just as well really. The rear puncture has been sorted, new heavy duty tube fitted, plus a spare front bought and have patched up the punctured rear. It was leaking in three places! It had been creased in the tyre which had caused it... I think.
Anyway, I also purchased some tyre levers, tube patch kit and had to get a new battery too! I think I must have drained the last gasps out of the old one limping back here on thursday, using the compressor at the side of the road about 6 or 7 times to get me "home". I tried charging it, but it was in vain. By the looks it was a cheap one anyway, I have now got a sealed version, straight off the shelf at Kmart! unbelievable really that they had the correct one, I was very surprised, even though the good fellows on KLR650.net said it could be bought off the shelf, thanks once again guys.
Again, a big thank you goes out to my "Queensland fixers" Ian & Paula, who have again extended their tremendous hospitality and h towards me and helping me out and help running me around to get the stuff needed to carry on, what will I do without them now??
Oh, I also "fashioned up" an extended rear carry plate bolted to the original one out of plywood covered in duc tape, as the rear bag I am carrying flops over the sides and covers the rear indicators, cant have that!
Last night here before I make my way towards the Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise, then dropping into New South Wales and Byron Bay.
Tonight was a real treat, Ian has been slaving over the stove and oven this afternoon cooking an incredible roast lamb dinner, it was amazing to say the least, complete with a wonderful Jimmy Ollie inspired gravy (Jamie Oliver to you foreigners!) washed down with some Argie red wine and cheese cake to follow completed a magic dinner, thank you Ian! And thanks to you all, Ian, Paula, Jack, Hannah and not forgetting Rosie the nutty hound, for making me feel so welcome and making my stay very memorable.
Well its pack up time now and an early start in the morning, hopefully this time I'll get my new larger front sprocket from Caboolture Motorcycles too. See you in Surfers!

Bundaberg to Burpengary

April 23rd Bundaberg to Burpengary (Base camp 1)
With my camp packed up and on the road early, I stopped at the shop to get the sprocket fitted, only to find out that the guy had tried to call me earlier to say that he had no luck getting it! So it was back to a search on the net to find out where I could get one. So I headed out of Bundaberg and headed out towards Childers, where I had stopped for breakfast on the way up a few days earlier. Just outside of Bundy, about 100m in front of me I saw a huge Red Kangaroo just going into the bush on my side, broad daylight again and this time he was BIG!
Arriving in Childers and detemined not to retrace my steps coming up, I turned off towards Biggenden, then onto Gympie. At Biggenden I hooked a left onto a minor road, again a good mix of tar and gravel and lots af cattle grids as the livestock were not fenced in, didn't fancy running into one of these beasts either! Out onto the main highway again and arrived in Gympie (not sure how they named this place!) time for lunch and I have to admit, I went to Macca's, but I did have a chicken wrap, which also leads me to say that the weight seems to be coming down too, judging by how loose my clothes are getting, less snacking and more riding methinks? :)

Just of of Gympie I picked up another minor route that would eventually lead me to Kenilworth, where my infamous detour took place the other day, but was determined to ride it the right way around this time! A few k's from Kenilworth I found a great little place called the Bellbird Creek Tea House http://www.bellbirdcreek.com/ which happened to be a motorcycle friendly place, with an old cruiser with a suitably kitted out dummy on board, parked at the gates. Motorcycle art adorned the walls and an old Honda 550 four parked by the side of the cafe. I had a coffee and a natter to the owner about, you know, the usual biker talk, where was I goin etc. and had a chat about his Triumph Tiger 1050 parked outsude with a very nice muffler attached. There I also talked to a couple from Bristol UK, the woman had previously ridden around the world on a BMW K100 as part of a group challenge that were doing it in three months, it was interesting talking to her about the possible perils to come, especially on the Nullarbor plains, with scary stories of roos and roadtrains! So if you ever find yourself on the road near Kenilworth, its well worth the stop in the Bellbird Cafe, its apparently a popular haunt for bikers on the weekend, with bikes taking over the front lawn, oh and yes, you can hear the Bellbirds! although I couldn't see them.

As I approached Landsborough, I was looking for a road that would take me past the Glasshouse Mountains, but I couldn't find it and found myself on the Steve Irwin Highway again, that meant that I couldn't be that far away from my starting point, I had not anticipated being back to base camp so early, but had such a good couple of days riding, where I just seemed to keep going as the roads were so interesting, so I guess I was stopping earlier than planned. I had to turn off the highway right to head towards Caboolture, then Burpengary, as I slowed down to take the turn into the intersection, the bike didn't feel right, as I looked into the junction, there were police and fire crews, there had been an accident (not serious) right on the mouth of the intersection, I was beckoned to turn my the police, as I did, I thought I was riding through oil as the bike went all over the place, the cop pointed to my rear tyre! I quickly stopped, puncture! I thought of calling a recovery truck and all those other things that go through your mind at times like these (it was getting dark too) as i talked to the cop, who was english, (I just find it strange to talk to an Aussie cop with a pommie accent!) I remembered that I had my cheap little mini compressor, if it was a slow puncture, I might be saved. With enough air in the tyre to get me going again, I made it for about 5k's, this was the story all the way back to Burpengary, stopping and pumping air about every 5 k's.

This was definately a warning I was thankful for, thankful that it happened so close to where I was heading and where I had the facility to get it put right, but if it had been anywhere else, I would not have been so lucky. Tomorrow I am buying a tube patch kit, a new tube and a spare for the front, plus some tyre levers, so at least I have some chance of getting back on the road, should I be caught out again!
Back at Ian and Paula's for a "pit stop". Its been good actually to have this chance to ride for a few days then come back here and assess what needs to be done for the rest of the journey. I have mangaged to "lose" the panniers and lots of other stuff I just dont need, like too many clothes, you just wash the bloody things out! So now I will be travelling lighter....and smarter!

Emu Park to Bundaberg

April 22nd
Emu Park (Rockhmapton) to Bundaberg.
The Emu Park backpackers was great $27 for a shared room, but the place was brand new, swimming pool, community room and a bar! at last, a beer :) I also tried the Bundaberg rum which I have to say was very nice with a drop of Coke, so I had two! A good chat around the bar with various people on their travels ranging from an American, Swede and German, all very nice people eager to share their stories and experiences.

So I headed off towards Bundaberg, though not really bent on getting there today, but I had to go and get the sprocket fitted. First was back through Rockhampton to get some jungle juice, then onto the Bruce again, a quick look at the map showed that there was, again an alternative route, and a good one too. A couple of K's outside the city was a turning on the right that would take me over the mount Morgan range into the township itself. A great road as was recommended by the Aussie Motorcyle atlas, although I think maybe a few too many trucks had been up there since it was written, it was very corrugated in places and even the KLR shifted around, so I can only imagine what it would be like aboard a stiffer rice rocket!

I stopped halfway up to look at the view and for a pic or two, then on up the hill as it reached the town of Mount Morgan. An old goldmining town and by the looks of things its all been mined and gold fever was long gone, the lucky few have headed off to greener pastures, only a handful of older houses now stand, but a very pleasant place.

On back down the hill and onto the flat I stopped at a roadhouse/Hotel to grab a cup off coffee and a ciggie break, by now the temperature was really getting up there again. Through the town of Bileola and then down to Monto.Thirty seven kms out of Monto, again consulting the map, there was a road that would take me across east back to Bundaberg, I was having such a good days riding that I decided to keep going. Turning left onto a minor road that was a mix of tar seal and gravel, my first taste of non tar on this trip so far. Some of you reading this will know that I'm less than useless on anything other than good old sticky hard tarmac, so it was with some anticipation that I took this route, but I'm glad I did, about the first 20k's was gravel and pretty easy to manage at around 70kph, the KLR gave me some confidence, which I needed!

Turning back to tar seal I went through the village of Mount Perry, where I filled up, not that it was empty by any means, but I didn't know when the next available fuel would be, so better safe...The road met the main highway at Gin Gin, then another minor road for about 50k's into Bundaberg, by now the light was fading, so I looked for a stop, I stopped at a campsite, but they did not accept tents? oh well, onto the next.

Just inside the city on the north side was a caravan park, with tent pitches,so $19 got me sorted, they even lent me a thin mattress to lie on as I didn't fancy that torture of the back again, so that was a relief.
Up in the morning and get the sprocket fitted.

1770 to Emu Park (near Rockhampton)

21st April
1770 to Emu Park (Near Rockhampton) 320 kms.

Bloody hell its hot today! back on the Bruce Highway, too much traffic and too many trucks! did I mention its bloody hot? The Bruce, unfortunately, is the easiest way to get to Rockhampton from here, so I motored on, stopped at the side of the road for a ciggie and a drink, looked at my thermo' 100+ degs ! back on the bike pronto and into the wind to try and cool off, too may trucks! passing little towns with even more trucks, stop for fuel, more trucks! stop whingin and get on with it! had to re tape my heat deflector sheet back on the exhaust side saddle bag, it s a bit close for comfort really.

Rockhampton, must have something to do with cattle, beef this and that and other claims about beef make this the beef capitol, how many times did I say beef? "Rocky" as its affectionately known by the locals lies right on the Tropic of Capricorn, being a goat myself, it seemed mildly significant, what is the TOC anyway? I know its kinda like the equator, an imaginary line around the earth, well I guess I should find out, I'll get back to you on that one. Not many (or any) backpackers in Rocky, not that I could find anyway, I needed a real bed tonight, my back couldn't take the punishing it did the night before. I pushed on to a place called Yepoon, on the capricorn coast, no backpackers here either, motels etc yes, but I seek meager accommodation, I spotted a packbackers about 20kms earlier at Emu Park just along the coast, so I went back and a very nice shared room and very cheap, and there is a bar here! yahoo!
I need a beer, I didn't get one the previous night. Checked in and just unpacked the essentials from the bike, no point in draggin it all off the bike is there! Well I'll prob be headin back south tomorrow, time is getting on and I dont think I really want to go any further north at this stage. I am really hoping I can ditch the saddlebags when I go back through Burpengary and drop in to see Ian & Paula again, I have just too much shit man! too many clothes and other crap I dont need, so I will see if it can be done anyway. Catch ya on the way down soon.

Torquay to Seventeen Seventy

20th April - Hervey Bay to 1770 287kms
I left the town of Torquay in Hervey Bay, after staying 2 nights at the campsite in my backpacker cabin, no-one else did arrive to share, so I had the place to myself :) With a full tank of gas I headed towards Bundaberg, where the rum guzzlin' polar bear resides. It wasn't as long a journey as the previous marathon and without too much of a hitch in the navigation either (I must be learning to read the map better) As I entered the town I headed straight for the nearest motorcycle shop, as I'd had an inclin that the steering head bearings weren't as they should be and possibly needed a tweek. The brummie spannerman had a look but all seemed fine, even after a little test ride down the road to make sure, I must be getting a wee bit paranoid, but I must admit after he put my mind to rest that its not really been an issue since. Anyway another thing I'd wanted to do was to gear the bike up a bit, no, I don't mean add more luggage! there's no more bloody room! the bike was a little too low geared, meaning that it could do with a "sixth gear" by changing the front drive sprocket to one with one more tooth would just give the bike slightly longer legs, the Honda/Suzuki dealers didn't have one but said that the Kawasaki place might, they didn't, but ordered one in for me with a plan to get it fitted on my way back down, sorted.

My plan was to ride to a little seaside place called Seventeen Seventy or 1770 as its called on the signs, so called because thats when Captain Cook set foot there. I saw my first Roo today, darting out from the side of the road, luckily he dashed straight back in again, maybe due to my "roo whistlers" I installed on the bike, little cone shape things that stick out on the front fairing that are supposed to help warn animals of your approach, I'm not trusting them alone, but maybe they did warn him?I rolled up to a campsite and pitched the tent, my first night under nylon :) I even cooked on my new stove too, instead of using the site facilities, oh and a nice cuppa tea. Tent went up a piece of cake, very sturdy, sleeping bag rolled out, but I had no sleeping mat, it was the most uncomfortable nights sleep in a very long time, must have woke up every hour to move position, not doin that again until I get a mat! I need a beer too, not had one in a few days, well off to somewhere else tomorrow.

Brisbane (Burpengary) to Torquay

Burpengary to Torquay - 18th April
So at last I set off into my full adventure, day 1 proper! Thanks to my "Queensland fixers" Paula & Ian, who put up with me for a month, feeding me and helping in many ways to get the bike roadworthy and on the road.
I set off (thats me leaving Ian & Paula's house)around 11am on Sat 18th April, heading towards a familiar place name, Torquay, in Hervey Bay, which is the step-off point for those going onto Fraser Island, the world's largest sand Island and home to many free roaming Dingos.

Heading up the Bruce Highway I had read about a rather good detour, that would keep me going in the general direction, but a great road anda break from the mundane main highway.

First turn off was onto the famous Steve Irwin road, where his famous Australia Zoo is situated. A quick stop there for a picture (and to say I'd been past it) then on my way. Now, to the detour, on up the road I sawe a sign with one of the place names I recognised from the Australian Motorcycle Atlas that I'm following and it was on this detour road, so I headed off! about an hour later I was entering a town that I didn't expect to see, as I should have gone way past it ages ago! It turns out that I had gone too far up the Croc hunters road and turned off too late, so instead off doing a clockwise detour which should have ended further on up the road, I did it in reverse and ended up further back than I started! Bugger! I kept going but the time was getting on and I had been warned, especially by people who have travelled by bike here before, not to ride at night and especially at dusk, beasties like to roam the streets! and I really dont fancy hitting a 'roo on a bike!

I did end up dashing the last 30kms or so in the dark, it was a nervous time I must say, but got to Hervey Bay and the campsite at about 6.30pm.

As it was dark I thought I'd get a backpacker cabin instead of puttin the tent up, same price too and I had the cabin to myself, which usually sleeps 4, shared kitchen, toilet & shower.

I haven't done much today, bought a few essential tools for the bike, adjusted the chain, went out for groceries and a bit of a ride around. Off to Bundaberg where they make the rum tomorrow :)

Finally - I think we have a result!

I've been here a month now...and haven't turned a wheel! Why? well in my wisdom (not) I decided to eventually buy a bike I hadn't seen before, I've done it before off New Zealand's famous Trademe auction site without a problem. So I saw a KLR650 that was a little too far away to go and see, but the description looked promising, "As new, perfect condition, you will not find a better KLR of this vintage" a few photos (which weren't that good I have to admit) a few phone calls and the deal was done. It was a good price, so I thought I was onto a winner.
Problem 1, was when it took almost 2 weeks to arrive with the guy givin me this and that excuse. Then....it arrived, loaded in the back of a furniture delivery van that had brought it the 1100 odd kms. It didn't look good! first thing the driver said was that he'd broken one of the rear indicators off moving it. Then on further inspection, the gear shifter was bent into the engine, the clutch lever was bent back on itself beyond repair and the tank had a dent/gouge in it, all this on the left side, so it had obviously had a fall on route (it wasn't strapped down either!)
The left fork seal was literally pissing out oil, the other rear indicator was nearly hanging off, he said he would reinstall the baffle on the muffler, his version of that was to "weld" on a stainless car tailpipe, it looked bloody awful!

Then there was the general condition of it! what a piece of shit, I thought! badly painted panels over the original plastic bodywork, rusty this and that, dirty and generally unloved and abused. NOT what the advert said at all, I was gutted to say the least.
I didn't really have much choice but to keep it, he had 90% of my money and what were my chances of sending it back on the truck it came in and getting my cash back? not much I thought, that way I'd have no bike AND no money.
I sent a very strong email to outline my disappointment and to ask what was he playing at, he basically just shrugged it off and even txted me a few days later to ask where the remainder of the money was!
So to cut a very long and painful story short, I decided that I was stuck with this bike, lessons were learned and I had to make the most of it.
So apart from the engine, it was pretty much stripped and sorted, even a new coat of black paint.
Fulls service, new oil and filters, new fork seals and oil, all linkages inspected and lubed, even some new mods recommended by the very wise people of the KLR.net forum, whom without I'd have been even more stuck! I had to get a second hand original muffler to replace the abomination that was there.
New parts were sourced by Ian who got them from the Kawasaki dealers near where he workd in Brisbane, thanks heaps Ian!

So now she finally stands, just a few tweaks left to do including new brake pads, final test ride, checks etc before I hit the road this weekend.

So, unless you are prepared for what may lie ahead, never buy a used bike you've never seen before! I felt really let down, but now I think I have a good bike to start this trip on.
A massive thank you goes out to Ian & Paula who have put up with me (and put me up) for the past month, especially as it was intended to only be a week or two! Thank you so much guys.

Ok, next blog will be on the road - I promise!!! :)