Phillip Island

May 7th

The home of the Australian round of the MotoGP and the World Superbikes that is also hosted here too.The Grand Prix has been back at the Island since 1998 when it came "home" after being held at Eastern Creek near Sydney, which I visited last week. I've been here twice before to watch the races, Valentino Rossi winning both times, I actually got to hold and have my photo taken with Rossi's winning trophy in 2003, as I was waiting in Melbourne airport to return home to New Zealand, I spotted Vale's ontourage with the trophy and asked to see it!

Today Phillip Island was empty, no sound of the thundering 800cc MotoGP bikes hammering down the Gardner Straight at over 320kph, or the wizzing 2 stroke 125's and 250's. The visitors centre and museum was open,I had just missed the 11am tour, so after grabbing some lunch and gettin some washing done back at Amaroo Park, I went back the 8kms to the track to catch the 2pm tour. There was only me and one other guy, who was more interested in the V8 Supercars that race here in the Aussie championships. We were led by a very nice young lass, who obviously had done her homework on the history and the general goings on around the place, she even said she had met Rossi on more than one occasion!

We were led from the vistors centre out to the main media centres above the pits where it all happens on race day. One room was where there were heaps of monitors that scan every part of the track, the cameras pointed around the track can be operated here by a game type joystick and can zoom in, scan up, down, left & right to check on any incidents that may happen, its also where all the race officials are gathered. I saw the media and corporate rooms where the TV companies do the commentary, basically all the places that you cant get to see normally and real good view over the pits and up and down the start/finish straight.

The best place was where all my hero's get to stand, the podium! It was still decked out in the sponsor logos from the World Superbike weekend that was held in March, obviously I had my photo taken on the top step! :)Hopefully I will be back here in October to watch the MotoGP, when all this will be buzzing with 95,000 race fans, its just a great weekend, but this was something a little different and still very enjoyable.Back to Amaroo Park, out for a burger and chips and a walk around the town, which again, comes to live during race weekends, its streets are deserted tonight!The Great Ocean Road beckons tomorrow, though the weather doesn't look too flash, but like Billy Connelly says, "there's no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothes, buy a raincoat and live a bit!"

Cann River to Phillip Island

May 6th

It was a cold start to the day, fire still smouldering, I think that bugger could have gone for a week! Said my goodbyes to Mark and Ben and headed west.I'm remembering mum today especially, as its a year since she passed on, I like to think she's still lookin out for me.

Today was really a head down blast to 'The Island' Lakes Entrance is a pretty place and did stop there for a little while, it seemed to have a "settlers" feel to it, judging by lots of historical statues.I was soon into the Gippsland district of Victoria, lots of forests here, lots of Kangaroo and Wombat signs too, Mark at camp said he hit a Wombat once on his Harley, he rode it home, in a fashion, but just to say that you really dont want to hit one of these things, they are solid! But the countryside was real nice. I stopped for a really great homemade burger in Yarram, no Maccas crap here! :)

Heading out towards Wonthaggi the wind was really getting up, especially as I was nearer the coast and its getting a lot cooler, the jacket liner and winter gloves have been put on today too, so thats an indication, I even bought a neck warmer at a bike shop earlier, a guy outside noticed the sticker on the screen of the bike "The Rock FM" a great Kiwi rock radio staion, he said he'd just come back from wellington NZ and said it was warmer there!I was in San Remo before I knew it, the gateway to Phillip Island and then the bride was in sight, time for a photo.

And onto the Island, this is hallowed turf! the great Grand Prix circuit lives here, I've been here twice before to watch the MotoGP, so it was pretty familiar, not only that, but I checkced in to the same place I stayed, Amaroo Park, though a bt cheaper this time around as they do special MotoGP weekend packages here. This time it was $30 per night in a four shared dorm with breakfast, sorted. Two other guys sharing the room, one from Scotland, working here for 2 years and an expat Kiwi livin in melbourne. I went for chinese take out tonight, not much to write about really, so I wont. I'll go to the track tomorrow.

Batemans Bay to Cann River

May 5th

Leaving early this morning I took the more scenic coastal road, the south NSW coast is really beautiful, its a shame its getting so cool now but still very sunny. I'd looked on the map and decided that I would have an easy day and not ride too far, a place called Eden seemed a good place to stop only about 200k's down the road.I took a couple of detours onto the coast roads as the sights were so nice, stopped for a Macs chicken Caesar salad again for lunch in a town I fail to remember, but it was nothing significant.

I stopped in Merimbula for some fuel and to take a few pics of the shore. Reaching Eden and no sign of a backpackers I rode around the town for a bit but decided I didn't like the feel of the place, there was just something about it that didn't feel right, so I didn't stay, but it was only just after lunch, so I had time to find somewhere else. Crossing the border into Victoria a few K's later and it instantly felt a lot cooler, in fact I was starting to get cold! Queensland seems a very long time ago now. There was a lot of lingering smoke in the forests too, not sure if it was a few fires still smouldering or new ones, intended or not, but you could see the charred edge of the forests in some places and this is not where the real bad ones were.

It was getting time for a rest stop so I arrived in a one horse town called Cann River, just as I came out of the store, two other guys on bikes pulled up, one on a lovely GSX-R1100 and the other on a much newer GS500. They were pretty social towards me, which I have to say is a relief. I don't want to start on about the motorcyclists waving/nodding to other motorcyclists thing, but I must say that I have noticed a serious lack of it here, like they really don't give a shit that you are on a bike too, not that I guess it really matters, but it is nice to recognise those with a similar interest and after all, I think there should be a certain degree of commraderie between us, especially here as I think they need it with proposed government restrictions and legislation on this and that, so I think it is actually important that we as motorcyclists acknowledge each other. I'll continue to wave or nod atpassing bikers, whatever they ride. Who did I borrow this soapbox off? :)I asked the two guys if they were staying near here, they said there was a campsite just up the road that was free! that'll do me and I was ready to stop anyway. We all pulled into the camp just off the road, its a public campsite and you may have to pay if one of the rangers calls by, but its only about 5 bucks if he does.It was real nice to have some company especially camping, Mark and Ben were on a three week roadtrip from Ulladulla NSW to Coober Peedy in South Australia, the opal mining town, where they live underground, goin there just out of interest and somewhere to ride and why not! With tents pitched we started to build a fire, the fire restrictions had been lifted in this area, so it was safe to do so and what a fire it was! not out of control but a real good hot one. It was that good that it took the interests of a nosey possum who walked by to inspect!

The two guys cooked their dinner on it, while I used the trusty stove,their sausages looked bloody nice though, more appetising than my packet Carbonara. We had a real good laugh around the fire talking and jokin and generally shootin the breeze, while keeping the fire stoked up with some pretty hefty logs, but thats how it got the real heat going, just as well, the temperature had really dropped and had got foggy. It was a cold nights sleep and on the solid ground again, but well worth it and it was free :) thanks to Mark and Ben for that one, cheers lads, ride safe!

Manly to Batemans Bay

May 4th

Manly was actually a real nice place, lots goin on, well plenty of bars and places to eat, another surfers lair. But as I said the backpackers was pretty grotty and they charged me $10 to park the bike in their garage!So on I go, heading towards Sydney city. It actually took me a wee while to find my way out of Manly, for some reason I just couldn't get out, wrong turns, dead ends until I eventually did a very un-man-like thing, I asked a bloke for directions :) I got out! followed signs for Sydney, heaps of traffic everywhere comin from every angle until I hit the main motorway and before I knew it, I was riding over the harbour bridge, its quite a sight I must say and an image that will stay with me for a very long time.

Glancing over to my left at the opera house and the harbour, then the road sweeps left and real close to the opera house, I wish I could have stopped and took a photo, but you all know what it looks like and I didn't fancy losin my way around Sydney for the sake of a dodgy snap! I've been to Sydney before and seen it all up close and took pics, it was a great feeling though and continued out through the city on the motorway.

Out on the south east side the traffic had calmed and I was on the road to Wollongong and pulled over at a bike shop as the oil needed a bit of a top up. I think these KLR's have a tendency to burn a bit of oil at least I hope its not anything more sinister, though it does have a tiny oil seep from one of the engine cases that I should have attended to. Demitri at Scotts Motorcycles (who had some very nice Yamaha SR500 specials on display, topped the oil up will enough to put it on the upper level, a quick chat with him and off again.It was basically a blast down the main highway to Batemans Bay. I wasn't sure it it was a bit far for the day's travel, but I got to Batemans in plenty of time and settled on a campsite again, with no undermat, I must get one :) I met a French guy who was cycling from Sydney to Melbourne who was also checking in to camp, what ever posesses someone to do that? I just dont get it, doesn't seem like much fun to me. I think I should be across the Victoria border tomorrow.

Paramatta to Manly

May 3rd

Eastern Creek used to be the venue for the Moto GP and for those that remember when Alex Criville took out the Aussie Mick Doohan on the top of the hill in 1997? I think. Of course Philip Island in Victoria is now used instead. The 'Creek is just down the road from Paramatta, so I got up and rode out there, just to see it, not go in, there was a car racing event going, I watched from outside where you could actually see a lot of the track, for about half an hour, then decided to navigate my way to Bill and Amanda's for lunch. It was bit early to be heading there, but my track record is not too good, so to be early was a bonus. When I got to Glenhaven I called Bill to get more directions to his house, he was driving at the time and was only two mins from where I was so he met me and led me in.It was great to see Bill, Amanda and Charlotte their daughter again, first time in twelve years. They were having lots of friend around to say thanks for all their support over the past few months, as tragically they lost their son Stuart in February. He joined the British army in the Rifles regiment only a few months earlier, he was posted to serve in Afghanistan and was killed whilst on operations. We toasted a tribute to Stuart and to the friends in support, life is so precious.

I had a wonderful lunch and drinks, thank you so much Bill and Amanda.I'd thought of riding to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains as I knew there was a backpackers there and really wanted to avoid central Sydney to find one.

Katoomba was too far and Manly on the north east side of Sydney seemed a better option. I again managed to navigate my way through the Sydnet maze and came to Manly, a very cool place and a great surf beach too. Found the backpackers and it was still light! though this particular backpackers is a bit grotty, the bathroom is miles away, but I do have the room to myself and free internet! so all is not lost. Now, where to tomorrow?

Forster to Paramatta

May 2nd

I didn't start out too early today, by the time I'd got my arse outta bed, packed up, cuppa tea etc, etc, it was about nineish. I hit the road that would take me through the "lakes" road that had been recommended to me by Ben in Coffs Harbour, not a bad road, but not as good as he'd made out, I'd been on better in the past few days, but he was very new to motorcycling and I'm sure he'll discover some gems of his own. Heading on the main coastal highway towards Newcastle I, yep, you know whats coming! DETOUR! of course, whats the point otherwise? I may as well have bought a car. I was actually thinkin about a cheap campervan the other day, you know, accommodation included! but then there is the fuel economy too and I have worked out that the KLR is doing 61mpg! thats 21.74kms per litre! I have a fuel calculator on my laptop and I had done exactly 300kms when I fuelled up with 13.8 litres. Not bad fuel economy eh! and anyway, this is a bike trip, its the point of it really, so no, I'm not getting a campervan! Where was I? oh yeah, detour. East towards Maitland and then onto Singleton to ride down the "Putty Road" as recommended by Bill in Sydney. Bill is an old friend of my sister and someone who I visited when I was here in 1997, May in fact! I was invited to call by and see Bill and Amanda who lived in Glenhaven, a north west Sydney suburb and have some lunch with them, a very lind offer, so I was heading somewhere near to them where I could find some reasonable accommodation.

Singleton is basically the start of the 170km Putty Road, so a great stop for lunch, a pub lunch too, chicken caesar salad for under 10 bucks, very nice too. The Putty is favoured by two wheelers around here and judging by the road signs about motorcycle safety, it was definately a thrashing ground. Very narrow and twisty at the top and I managed to get stuck behind a truck for about 10k's, with a guy on a Triumph Speedmaster joining be in my mirrors. An overtaking lane sorted the truck out and by now the road had started to open out a bit, not quite as tight, more sweeping bends, with a few tighter ones thrown in. I've really not taken to giving the KLR too much of a peg to peg work out, its not really the kind of bike I'm used to doing that with, I have a lot of heavy luggage on the back and the tyres dont give me a whole heap of confidence to lean her over too far, plus, on these roads, if you go down, it could be very messy!But, I did start to get into it a bit, not goin mad, but shall we say makin good progress. My sportsbike riding buddies back in NZ would have been salivating and would not have seen them for dust and knee sparks! But I did start losing the guy on the Triumph everytime a corner came up, he caught me back on the straights, I only go 100kph max on the KLR.

I pulled over at the halfway truck stop at the top of the road for a drink and a smoke, Mr Triumph went past and carried on.I arrived in Windsor at the end of the magnificent Putty Road, a real nice town which remminded me of England a bit, well it was called Windsor, a bit like a Kent village I've been to, lots of bikes too, some would have been on the Putty, which reminds me, I saw more bikes than cars on that entire 170km stretch of road, brilliant!Bill had called with a recommendation of a Hostel just up the road on the edge of the Blue Mountains, he found it on the internet and was a great setting in the forest and the hills, I called him back to get directions and set off, only about a twenty minute ride. It was about 20 mins away and in a great location, but was closed! and actually looked closed down! Turn around and go back, now it was getting dark, again, when will I bloody learn!

I headed for Paramatta and to cut a long story short, I spent about an hour riding around Paramatta with increasing saturday night traffic and getting in the wrong lanes, getting lost, not knowing where the hell I was, very tired and by now very agitated, so I stopped at the first and only motel I could find, In a city! another accom budget blown! I arrived not in the best of moods, very angry with myself for letting it happen, yet again! Nice room though, with luxuries like a TV and tea/coffee :)

Coffs Harbour to Forster

1st May
I'm getting a little ambitious with my destinations of late and arriving as its getting dark, then struggling to find some cheap accomodation. I'd initially set out today after consulting the atlas, to a place called Nelson Bay, thinking that sounds a nice place, I'll go there, even for nostalgia sake. Ben from the backpackers also told me that it was in fact, a very nice place too. So, I set off again, not heading south, but inland again to what looked a great route through the mountains.

I'll step back a bit to say that the weather was a little overcast and not as warm today when I set out, so thought it might be wise to get on the coastal highway and get my head down and ride. Ten minutes on the freeway and I'd had enough, I needed somewhere interesting to ride, not just a white line drag strip.Turning off the first available exit took me to where I'd initially intended to ride, out towards Dorrigo, Armidale and through the New England National Park. Climbing up through the Waterfall Way road was very windy and steep but also very interesting. I said earlier, it was not as warm today and climbing as steep as this, it was getting colder & colder until I reached the summit of Dorrigo at around 800m. Now that doesn't sound very high really, but high enough for me to change to my winter gloves & it had started raining, but only slightly.

Carrying on through to Armidale took me right across the ridge of the ranges, the rain never came to much but it was still bloody cold and I started finally decending to warmer climates, so I thought. Heading now south over the great Dividing Range down to Walcha and onto the Thunderbolts Highway towards Gloucester. Yes, Gloucester, I had to go through there didn't I! This was back to a more reasonable elevation and had now warmed up, back on with the summer gloves :)Before getting to Nelson Bay, Ben told me a another great road through the Lakes out towards Forster, so I headed that way, it was getting late in the afternoon now, probably around fourish, then I saw a sign that said Nelson Bay 170km! holy shit! that was too far, I'd already travelled about 450k's and this was too far, too late, I was very tired and needed to stop soon. So thats why I ended up in Forster and not Nelson Bay.

Forster was a strange kinda place, a few highish rise appartment/hotel blocks, nice beach and a very sort of seaside, tourist town, but in between them there were a few "closed" or derelict buildings, almost kind of a ghost town, certainly not as vibrant as it once possobly was, or was it just because it was out of season? The backpackers was a victim of this too, closed down, another motel and another weeks budget blown!, well 2 days anyway, it was pretty cheap, but I'm gonna have to start making my destinations a little more achievable, especially if I'm detouring all the time.

Byron Bay to Coffs Harbour

30th April

Welcome to Australia - sorry this place is currently under construction! there is an unbelievable amount of roadworks, even on the roads you'd not expect to find them, sometimes its hard to see any road "works" just the road cones and barriers, maybe the odd mount of soil here and there. I guess with the Aussie tax year coming to a close, they need to spend the money quick, or the councils will be fighting to get their levvy next time. Its a bit stop - start, especially when the sun's beating down and the fan keeps cutting in and out on the bike, you just need to get going and keep going sometimes.

Anyway a good time in Byron Bay, I do have a soft spot for that place now, but on I go and no real destination today except to make some progress down the coast towards Sydney.Coff's Harbour seemed a good stop, so its across country a bit, inland towards Casino, no, its not like Vegas, at all! Just a country town, but would take me away from the mundane main highway. I could have kicked myself really, I wanted to visit Nimbin, famous for its, well shall we say relaxed atmosphere. Apparently this place held the Aquarius festival in 1973 and some of the revelers never left and kept the new age festival feel going to this day and you know what kind of festival that would have been in '73! I had the day to myself yesterday and never thought about going there, but I really didn't have time today and needed to keep going south, bugger!It was a good road from Casino down to Grafton though, nothing spectacular, then out onto the main coastal highway. I did go through a town called Woolgoolga and came across this magnificent Sihk temple on the outskirts, seemed quite out of place really.

Just a few K's down the road into Coffs and found the backpackers, a good one too called the Ausitell (I think) where they run scuba diving courses (PADI) for the guests.I met another guy on an old Kawasaki GT550, Ben from just down the road in Newcastle (NSW not Teeside) a seventeen year old on his way to Brisbane to a convention for tall people! he was 6'10" and still growing! maybe we should have swapped bikes? :)

Kingscliff to Byron Bay

28th April

I know what some may be thinking and you'd be right, its only a stone throw away, under an hours ride to Byron, but I'd intended to meet up with John, my boss at Thunderbike, as he was going to be staying there for a few days and we'd agreed to catch up. Consulting the bike atlas gave a great ride through the Gold Coast Hinterland, that would loop me right back to Kingscliff and on down to Byron, what a ride!

Heading about 20k's west to Murwillumbah, then swiching onto highway 97 taking me back over the state border into Queensland, a fairly steep climb too to reach the border, stopping for coffee and cake on the way at the Chillingham store. Apparently its called the Hinze Raceway after the minister of main roads had it built and drove it frequently, I can see why, through really beautiful rugged scenery the road starts to open out from the initial tight and narrow NSW side, some of these corners were just built for sportsbikes and I have to admit that I wish I was on one through here. Great riding surface, well sign posted corners (which again dictate that its a motorcyclist accident spot) and some of the 180 degree (which there must have been 20 or more!) loops were amazing and just begging for some kneedown action!Like I said, it would eventually bring me back out in the heart of the Goldcoast, following my tracks again through Southport & "Surfers" I stopped again for a few more photos.

Traffic was slow and out on the Pacific highway it was hot too, miles and miles of traffic pouring slowly through the seive of traffic lights, endless bloody traffic lights! until it all starts to thin out further down the coast, off the main highway, back into NSW and to my starting point this morning, Kingscliff, except this time I keep going. Its only a short hop to Byron, but this place is so much more natural and inviting than Surfers was, much more my scene. I'd describe this place as a wee bit like a smaller version of Queenstown in NZ, with surfboards! Lots of travelers here, lots of accents, sand, sea, surf and all that goes with it, I expected this place to erupt at night, but it was surprisingly calm, even the Aquarius backpackers where I stayed was relativley quiet to what I'd expected, I guess its getting a little late in the year and its definately getting cooler further south! My dorm was shared with a couple of lads from Manchester, two from Sweden, both of whom spoke amazingly good English and Lorenzo from Italy, a good bunch of guys too.
Out in the evening for a great Thai meal and a bottle of red with John, that with the beers I'd sunk at the backpackers made my steps slightly sideways on the walk back :)I hung around Byron for another day, didn't really do much, watched the surfing on the beach for a while, but I could have gone out to Nimbin, the hippy place only about an hour away, I never thought about it until later, when it was too late! as I was off to Coffs Harbour the next day and really wouldn't have time to detour to see it, I'm a bit gutted, cos apparently its a must see on your travels, I guess I cant see it all! But all that said, Byron Bay is definately the nicest place I've visited so far. Looking at the map shows I've really not gone very far yet, about 3000K's altogether so far, be time to change the oil soon!

Basecamp to Kingscliff

27th April

Its the second leg of the journey, the real one now, no turning back. With some adjustments done to the bike, like refitting the airbox snorkel! Not the brightest tool in the box when it comes to the actual mechanics of motorcycling, I read that it may run better with it out, getting more air to the carb, but, when I actually thought abot it, it seemed logical to me that the bike would run a lot leaner, therefore run hotter, no wonder the exhaust was melting everything, including me!Its running a lot better now, though I still don't have that elusive 16 tooth front sprocket yet, Caboolture m/cycles were supposed to txt or call me when it arrived, they haven't done so, bloody bike dealers, never get back to you when they say they will!

Anyhow, I digress, travelling a wee bit north to join the D'Aguilar highway as it seemed to look an interesting ride on the map, took me a few k's north west to D'Aguilar before hookin a left and droppin south and over mount Wee, an obvious bikers road, judgin from the amount I saw and the motorcyclist warning signs of accident black spots. All the while I'm edgin my way towards Brisbane city, a few glimpses of the skyline in the distance confirmed I was heading in the right direction...for once, even though it was a few photo opportunities missed.

Brushin the outskirts of the city was a bit of a lottery to the direction I needed to go, signs for my route were few and far between, so it was more guesswork really, but I got through it and headed to the Ipswich motorway so that I could cut back and join the Logan motorway to get on the Lindesay highway to continue heading south avoiding the main highway and to make things a little more interesting.Beaudesert was the lunch stop, even if it was a burger :) then to cut back across east towards the Goldcoast via some great twisty roads and over the Darlington Ranges, finally emerging at Nerang.

Next was Southport on the north side of the Goldcoast, I could see the highrise skyline of the coast for a few miles away, as it got nearer I was really shocked by how big it was, South Port and all the way through Surfers Paradise is a mass of highrise hotels and business centres, a little like the beach front in LA, kind of :) golden beaches, palm trees with the highrise backdrop, surfers, skater boys and golden tanned beach babes, handbag pooches, fitness freaks and a fatman :) (I dont mean me either!)very interesting but very plastic, if you see what I mean, not really my scene, so I carried on down the coast.

Light was again my enemy, riding through less privellidged towns, well they actually appealed more to me, more real, but limited accomodation, even the campsites were booked out. My only real option was a motel about 10k's over the New South Wales border in Kingscliff, funny how suddenly all the the vehicle licence plates have NSW on them, it wasn't expensive by motel standards, it was in the budget chain, but lets say that I had to blow the next three night accommodation budget to stay there, but I did get my own room :)

Back at Basecamp

I arrived back here on thursday, a little earlier than planned, but it was just as well really. The rear puncture has been sorted, new heavy duty tube fitted, plus a spare front bought and have patched up the punctured rear. It was leaking in three places! It had been creased in the tyre which had caused it... I think.
Anyway, I also purchased some tyre levers, tube patch kit and had to get a new battery too! I think I must have drained the last gasps out of the old one limping back here on thursday, using the compressor at the side of the road about 6 or 7 times to get me "home". I tried charging it, but it was in vain. By the looks it was a cheap one anyway, I have now got a sealed version, straight off the shelf at Kmart! unbelievable really that they had the correct one, I was very surprised, even though the good fellows on KLR650.net said it could be bought off the shelf, thanks once again guys.
Again, a big thank you goes out to my "Queensland fixers" Ian & Paula, who have again extended their tremendous hospitality and h towards me and helping me out and help running me around to get the stuff needed to carry on, what will I do without them now??
Oh, I also "fashioned up" an extended rear carry plate bolted to the original one out of plywood covered in duc tape, as the rear bag I am carrying flops over the sides and covers the rear indicators, cant have that!
Last night here before I make my way towards the Gold Coast and Surfers Paradise, then dropping into New South Wales and Byron Bay.
Tonight was a real treat, Ian has been slaving over the stove and oven this afternoon cooking an incredible roast lamb dinner, it was amazing to say the least, complete with a wonderful Jimmy Ollie inspired gravy (Jamie Oliver to you foreigners!) washed down with some Argie red wine and cheese cake to follow completed a magic dinner, thank you Ian! And thanks to you all, Ian, Paula, Jack, Hannah and not forgetting Rosie the nutty hound, for making me feel so welcome and making my stay very memorable.
Well its pack up time now and an early start in the morning, hopefully this time I'll get my new larger front sprocket from Caboolture Motorcycles too. See you in Surfers!

Bundaberg to Burpengary

April 23rd Bundaberg to Burpengary (Base camp 1)
With my camp packed up and on the road early, I stopped at the shop to get the sprocket fitted, only to find out that the guy had tried to call me earlier to say that he had no luck getting it! So it was back to a search on the net to find out where I could get one. So I headed out of Bundaberg and headed out towards Childers, where I had stopped for breakfast on the way up a few days earlier. Just outside of Bundy, about 100m in front of me I saw a huge Red Kangaroo just going into the bush on my side, broad daylight again and this time he was BIG!
Arriving in Childers and detemined not to retrace my steps coming up, I turned off towards Biggenden, then onto Gympie. At Biggenden I hooked a left onto a minor road, again a good mix of tar and gravel and lots af cattle grids as the livestock were not fenced in, didn't fancy running into one of these beasts either! Out onto the main highway again and arrived in Gympie (not sure how they named this place!) time for lunch and I have to admit, I went to Macca's, but I did have a chicken wrap, which also leads me to say that the weight seems to be coming down too, judging by how loose my clothes are getting, less snacking and more riding methinks? :)

Just of of Gympie I picked up another minor route that would eventually lead me to Kenilworth, where my infamous detour took place the other day, but was determined to ride it the right way around this time! A few k's from Kenilworth I found a great little place called the Bellbird Creek Tea House http://www.bellbirdcreek.com/ which happened to be a motorcycle friendly place, with an old cruiser with a suitably kitted out dummy on board, parked at the gates. Motorcycle art adorned the walls and an old Honda 550 four parked by the side of the cafe. I had a coffee and a natter to the owner about, you know, the usual biker talk, where was I goin etc. and had a chat about his Triumph Tiger 1050 parked outsude with a very nice muffler attached. There I also talked to a couple from Bristol UK, the woman had previously ridden around the world on a BMW K100 as part of a group challenge that were doing it in three months, it was interesting talking to her about the possible perils to come, especially on the Nullarbor plains, with scary stories of roos and roadtrains! So if you ever find yourself on the road near Kenilworth, its well worth the stop in the Bellbird Cafe, its apparently a popular haunt for bikers on the weekend, with bikes taking over the front lawn, oh and yes, you can hear the Bellbirds! although I couldn't see them.

As I approached Landsborough, I was looking for a road that would take me past the Glasshouse Mountains, but I couldn't find it and found myself on the Steve Irwin Highway again, that meant that I couldn't be that far away from my starting point, I had not anticipated being back to base camp so early, but had such a good couple of days riding, where I just seemed to keep going as the roads were so interesting, so I guess I was stopping earlier than planned. I had to turn off the highway right to head towards Caboolture, then Burpengary, as I slowed down to take the turn into the intersection, the bike didn't feel right, as I looked into the junction, there were police and fire crews, there had been an accident (not serious) right on the mouth of the intersection, I was beckoned to turn my the police, as I did, I thought I was riding through oil as the bike went all over the place, the cop pointed to my rear tyre! I quickly stopped, puncture! I thought of calling a recovery truck and all those other things that go through your mind at times like these (it was getting dark too) as i talked to the cop, who was english, (I just find it strange to talk to an Aussie cop with a pommie accent!) I remembered that I had my cheap little mini compressor, if it was a slow puncture, I might be saved. With enough air in the tyre to get me going again, I made it for about 5k's, this was the story all the way back to Burpengary, stopping and pumping air about every 5 k's.

This was definately a warning I was thankful for, thankful that it happened so close to where I was heading and where I had the facility to get it put right, but if it had been anywhere else, I would not have been so lucky. Tomorrow I am buying a tube patch kit, a new tube and a spare for the front, plus some tyre levers, so at least I have some chance of getting back on the road, should I be caught out again!
Back at Ian and Paula's for a "pit stop". Its been good actually to have this chance to ride for a few days then come back here and assess what needs to be done for the rest of the journey. I have mangaged to "lose" the panniers and lots of other stuff I just dont need, like too many clothes, you just wash the bloody things out! So now I will be travelling lighter....and smarter!

Emu Park to Bundaberg

April 22nd
Emu Park (Rockhmapton) to Bundaberg.
The Emu Park backpackers was great $27 for a shared room, but the place was brand new, swimming pool, community room and a bar! at last, a beer :) I also tried the Bundaberg rum which I have to say was very nice with a drop of Coke, so I had two! A good chat around the bar with various people on their travels ranging from an American, Swede and German, all very nice people eager to share their stories and experiences.

So I headed off towards Bundaberg, though not really bent on getting there today, but I had to go and get the sprocket fitted. First was back through Rockhampton to get some jungle juice, then onto the Bruce again, a quick look at the map showed that there was, again an alternative route, and a good one too. A couple of K's outside the city was a turning on the right that would take me over the mount Morgan range into the township itself. A great road as was recommended by the Aussie Motorcyle atlas, although I think maybe a few too many trucks had been up there since it was written, it was very corrugated in places and even the KLR shifted around, so I can only imagine what it would be like aboard a stiffer rice rocket!

I stopped halfway up to look at the view and for a pic or two, then on up the hill as it reached the town of Mount Morgan. An old goldmining town and by the looks of things its all been mined and gold fever was long gone, the lucky few have headed off to greener pastures, only a handful of older houses now stand, but a very pleasant place.

On back down the hill and onto the flat I stopped at a roadhouse/Hotel to grab a cup off coffee and a ciggie break, by now the temperature was really getting up there again. Through the town of Bileola and then down to Monto.Thirty seven kms out of Monto, again consulting the map, there was a road that would take me across east back to Bundaberg, I was having such a good days riding that I decided to keep going. Turning left onto a minor road that was a mix of tar seal and gravel, my first taste of non tar on this trip so far. Some of you reading this will know that I'm less than useless on anything other than good old sticky hard tarmac, so it was with some anticipation that I took this route, but I'm glad I did, about the first 20k's was gravel and pretty easy to manage at around 70kph, the KLR gave me some confidence, which I needed!

Turning back to tar seal I went through the village of Mount Perry, where I filled up, not that it was empty by any means, but I didn't know when the next available fuel would be, so better safe...The road met the main highway at Gin Gin, then another minor road for about 50k's into Bundaberg, by now the light was fading, so I looked for a stop, I stopped at a campsite, but they did not accept tents? oh well, onto the next.

Just inside the city on the north side was a caravan park, with tent pitches,so $19 got me sorted, they even lent me a thin mattress to lie on as I didn't fancy that torture of the back again, so that was a relief.
Up in the morning and get the sprocket fitted.

1770 to Emu Park (near Rockhampton)

21st April
1770 to Emu Park (Near Rockhampton) 320 kms.

Bloody hell its hot today! back on the Bruce Highway, too much traffic and too many trucks! did I mention its bloody hot? The Bruce, unfortunately, is the easiest way to get to Rockhampton from here, so I motored on, stopped at the side of the road for a ciggie and a drink, looked at my thermo' 100+ degs ! back on the bike pronto and into the wind to try and cool off, too may trucks! passing little towns with even more trucks, stop for fuel, more trucks! stop whingin and get on with it! had to re tape my heat deflector sheet back on the exhaust side saddle bag, it s a bit close for comfort really.

Rockhampton, must have something to do with cattle, beef this and that and other claims about beef make this the beef capitol, how many times did I say beef? "Rocky" as its affectionately known by the locals lies right on the Tropic of Capricorn, being a goat myself, it seemed mildly significant, what is the TOC anyway? I know its kinda like the equator, an imaginary line around the earth, well I guess I should find out, I'll get back to you on that one. Not many (or any) backpackers in Rocky, not that I could find anyway, I needed a real bed tonight, my back couldn't take the punishing it did the night before. I pushed on to a place called Yepoon, on the capricorn coast, no backpackers here either, motels etc yes, but I seek meager accommodation, I spotted a packbackers about 20kms earlier at Emu Park just along the coast, so I went back and a very nice shared room and very cheap, and there is a bar here! yahoo!
I need a beer, I didn't get one the previous night. Checked in and just unpacked the essentials from the bike, no point in draggin it all off the bike is there! Well I'll prob be headin back south tomorrow, time is getting on and I dont think I really want to go any further north at this stage. I am really hoping I can ditch the saddlebags when I go back through Burpengary and drop in to see Ian & Paula again, I have just too much shit man! too many clothes and other crap I dont need, so I will see if it can be done anyway. Catch ya on the way down soon.

Torquay to Seventeen Seventy

20th April - Hervey Bay to 1770 287kms
I left the town of Torquay in Hervey Bay, after staying 2 nights at the campsite in my backpacker cabin, no-one else did arrive to share, so I had the place to myself :) With a full tank of gas I headed towards Bundaberg, where the rum guzzlin' polar bear resides. It wasn't as long a journey as the previous marathon and without too much of a hitch in the navigation either (I must be learning to read the map better) As I entered the town I headed straight for the nearest motorcycle shop, as I'd had an inclin that the steering head bearings weren't as they should be and possibly needed a tweek. The brummie spannerman had a look but all seemed fine, even after a little test ride down the road to make sure, I must be getting a wee bit paranoid, but I must admit after he put my mind to rest that its not really been an issue since. Anyway another thing I'd wanted to do was to gear the bike up a bit, no, I don't mean add more luggage! there's no more bloody room! the bike was a little too low geared, meaning that it could do with a "sixth gear" by changing the front drive sprocket to one with one more tooth would just give the bike slightly longer legs, the Honda/Suzuki dealers didn't have one but said that the Kawasaki place might, they didn't, but ordered one in for me with a plan to get it fitted on my way back down, sorted.

My plan was to ride to a little seaside place called Seventeen Seventy or 1770 as its called on the signs, so called because thats when Captain Cook set foot there. I saw my first Roo today, darting out from the side of the road, luckily he dashed straight back in again, maybe due to my "roo whistlers" I installed on the bike, little cone shape things that stick out on the front fairing that are supposed to help warn animals of your approach, I'm not trusting them alone, but maybe they did warn him?I rolled up to a campsite and pitched the tent, my first night under nylon :) I even cooked on my new stove too, instead of using the site facilities, oh and a nice cuppa tea. Tent went up a piece of cake, very sturdy, sleeping bag rolled out, but I had no sleeping mat, it was the most uncomfortable nights sleep in a very long time, must have woke up every hour to move position, not doin that again until I get a mat! I need a beer too, not had one in a few days, well off to somewhere else tomorrow.

Brisbane (Burpengary) to Torquay

Burpengary to Torquay - 18th April
So at last I set off into my full adventure, day 1 proper! Thanks to my "Queensland fixers" Paula & Ian, who put up with me for a month, feeding me and helping in many ways to get the bike roadworthy and on the road.
I set off (thats me leaving Ian & Paula's house)around 11am on Sat 18th April, heading towards a familiar place name, Torquay, in Hervey Bay, which is the step-off point for those going onto Fraser Island, the world's largest sand Island and home to many free roaming Dingos.

Heading up the Bruce Highway I had read about a rather good detour, that would keep me going in the general direction, but a great road anda break from the mundane main highway.

First turn off was onto the famous Steve Irwin road, where his famous Australia Zoo is situated. A quick stop there for a picture (and to say I'd been past it) then on my way. Now, to the detour, on up the road I sawe a sign with one of the place names I recognised from the Australian Motorcycle Atlas that I'm following and it was on this detour road, so I headed off! about an hour later I was entering a town that I didn't expect to see, as I should have gone way past it ages ago! It turns out that I had gone too far up the Croc hunters road and turned off too late, so instead off doing a clockwise detour which should have ended further on up the road, I did it in reverse and ended up further back than I started! Bugger! I kept going but the time was getting on and I had been warned, especially by people who have travelled by bike here before, not to ride at night and especially at dusk, beasties like to roam the streets! and I really dont fancy hitting a 'roo on a bike!

I did end up dashing the last 30kms or so in the dark, it was a nervous time I must say, but got to Hervey Bay and the campsite at about 6.30pm.

As it was dark I thought I'd get a backpacker cabin instead of puttin the tent up, same price too and I had the cabin to myself, which usually sleeps 4, shared kitchen, toilet & shower.

I haven't done much today, bought a few essential tools for the bike, adjusted the chain, went out for groceries and a bit of a ride around. Off to Bundaberg where they make the rum tomorrow :)

Finally - I think we have a result!

I've been here a month now...and haven't turned a wheel! Why? well in my wisdom (not) I decided to eventually buy a bike I hadn't seen before, I've done it before off New Zealand's famous Trademe auction site without a problem. So I saw a KLR650 that was a little too far away to go and see, but the description looked promising, "As new, perfect condition, you will not find a better KLR of this vintage" a few photos (which weren't that good I have to admit) a few phone calls and the deal was done. It was a good price, so I thought I was onto a winner.
Problem 1, was when it took almost 2 weeks to arrive with the guy givin me this and that excuse. Then....it arrived, loaded in the back of a furniture delivery van that had brought it the 1100 odd kms. It didn't look good! first thing the driver said was that he'd broken one of the rear indicators off moving it. Then on further inspection, the gear shifter was bent into the engine, the clutch lever was bent back on itself beyond repair and the tank had a dent/gouge in it, all this on the left side, so it had obviously had a fall on route (it wasn't strapped down either!)
The left fork seal was literally pissing out oil, the other rear indicator was nearly hanging off, he said he would reinstall the baffle on the muffler, his version of that was to "weld" on a stainless car tailpipe, it looked bloody awful!

Then there was the general condition of it! what a piece of shit, I thought! badly painted panels over the original plastic bodywork, rusty this and that, dirty and generally unloved and abused. NOT what the advert said at all, I was gutted to say the least.
I didn't really have much choice but to keep it, he had 90% of my money and what were my chances of sending it back on the truck it came in and getting my cash back? not much I thought, that way I'd have no bike AND no money.
I sent a very strong email to outline my disappointment and to ask what was he playing at, he basically just shrugged it off and even txted me a few days later to ask where the remainder of the money was!
So to cut a very long and painful story short, I decided that I was stuck with this bike, lessons were learned and I had to make the most of it.
So apart from the engine, it was pretty much stripped and sorted, even a new coat of black paint.
Fulls service, new oil and filters, new fork seals and oil, all linkages inspected and lubed, even some new mods recommended by the very wise people of the KLR.net forum, whom without I'd have been even more stuck! I had to get a second hand original muffler to replace the abomination that was there.
New parts were sourced by Ian who got them from the Kawasaki dealers near where he workd in Brisbane, thanks heaps Ian!

So now she finally stands, just a few tweaks left to do including new brake pads, final test ride, checks etc before I hit the road this weekend.

So, unless you are prepared for what may lie ahead, never buy a used bike you've never seen before! I felt really let down, but now I think I have a good bike to start this trip on.
A massive thank you goes out to Ian & Paula who have put up with me (and put me up) for the past month, especially as it was intended to only be a week or two! Thank you so much guys.

Ok, next blog will be on the road - I promise!!! :)

Brisbane city....complete with lifeguards!

Hi all, yes I know, when am I gonna get on the road I hear you scream! Well, I've been on the phone to the guy today and its being delivered in a truck getting here on tuesday :) yippee!

So, today I took myself into the city, well from the help of a rather long thing that runs on tracks, yep, got the train into the city to have another look around and see a few of the sights, takes about 45 mins from here to the central station, as it stops at every station on the way, AU$10.40 for the day, which includes all Bris public transport (trains, buses and the sea cat) so that was cheap travel!

Walked over the Victoria St Bridge to Southbank, where the parks and cafe culture take the place of busy streets and shopping malls, oh, and there's a beach! really! no sh*t! (sorry, this is a public blog so I'll censor my profanities) A man made beach just off the river front, complete with sand and lifeguards, I thought of throwin in a few clear plastic bags to see if it resembled some jelly fish too :)
There's a photo on this page too, its really cool actually, surrounded by a park and lots (and I do mean lots!) of cafes.
Takin full advantage of my daily transport pass, I then climbed aboard the Sea Cat, a passenger catamaran (obvious really wasn't it) and went up and down the Brisbane River which took around and hour and a great way to see the city and surroundings, you can of course disembark at various stops along the way, but I chose just to cruise up and down and get off on the city side.
A quick jaunt around the busy streets and malls and then back on the train to Burpengary.

A great day and didn't cost a fortune.

Ok, I promise the next blog will be me telling about my new bike and where I intend to RIDE next, until then, thanks for checkin in, ya'll come back now dya hear!

I'm still here!

Hi, not much to report yet, I've tracked down a machine that will hopefully steer me safely across this brown land.
It's a 2003 Kawasaki KLR650, its not here yet as I bought it from up north Queensland, it should be here this weekend with a bit of luck. So then I can pack the mule and head off, Fraser Island is probably my first stop, but anything can happen and I reserve the right to change my mind without notice! :)
I've just found this map thingy that plots where I am at anytime, so hopefully this will work.
It probably says "dreamer" next to the mark on the map, thats just my name on the KLR650 chat forum.

Righto, gotta go and get some tucker, catch ya soon. Oh and here's a pic of what the bike should look like too.